Under Collar Felt is a specialized type of felt used in tailoring, particularly in the construction of suits, jackets, and coats. This felt is placed under the collar to provide structure, shape, and durability to the collar, ensuring it maintains its form over time.

Material:

• Wool or Wool Blend: Under collar felt is typically made from wool or a wool blend, which provides a balance of softness, resilience, and breathability. Some variants may also include synthetic fibers to enhance durability and reduce costs.

Characteristics:

• Structural Support: The primary function of under collar felt is to provide structure to the collar, helping it maintain its shape and lay properly against the neck and shoulders.
• Softness: The felt is soft enough to ensure comfort while wearing, preventing irritation against the skin.
• Durability: Made to withstand repeated wear, the felt is durable and resistant to stretching or deformation, ensuring the collar retains its crisp, professional appearance.
• Moisture Absorption: Wool's natural moisture-wicking properties help absorb sweat and moisture, keeping the collar dry and comfortable.
• Shape Retention: The felt helps in retaining the shape of the collar over time, even with regular use, which is crucial for maintaining the garment’s overall appearance.

Applications:

• Tailored Suits: Used in the collars of tailored suits to give them a sharp, clean finish, enhancing the overall fit and look of the garment.
• Jackets and Coats: Commonly found in the collars of jackets and coats, providing the necessary support and structure to these heavier garments.
• Uniforms: Employed in uniforms where a consistent, professional appearance is required, ensuring that collars maintain their form throughout extended wear.
• Costumes: Used in theatrical or period costumes to achieve historically accurate silhouettes or specific stylistic effects.

How to Use:

1. Cutting: Under collar felt is cut to match the shape and size of the collar pattern. Precision is important to ensure that the felt fits perfectly under the collar fabric.

2. Positioning: The felt is placed between the outer collar fabric and the collar lining or interfacing, depending on the design. It’s positioned to provide support without being visible from the outside.

3. Sewing: The collar layers, including the felt, are sewn together. The felt helps to stabilize the collar during the sewing process and ensures that it maintains its intended shape.

4. Pressing: After sewing, the collar is pressed to set the shape. The felt’s ability to hold its form is crucial in this step, as it ensures a crisp, professional finish.

5. Finishing: The collar is attached to the garment, with the felt providing a smooth, structured appearance that enhances the overall fit and style.

Advantages:

• Enhanced Garment Structure: Provides essential support to collars, ensuring they maintain their shape and enhance the overall structure of tailored garments.
• Comfort: The soft felt material adds comfort, reducing the chance of irritation where the collar meets the neck.
• Professional Finish: Helps achieve a polished, high-quality finish in tailored garments, making it an essential component in fine tailoring.
• Moisture Management: Wool felt's moisture-absorbing properties contribute to comfort, especially in formal wear that may be worn for extended periods.

Considerations:

• Thickness: The thickness of the felt must be chosen carefully to ensure it provides adequate support without making the collar too bulky.
• Material Compatibility: The felt should be compatible with the collar fabric in terms of weight, texture, and color to ensure a seamless integration.

In summary, under collar felt is a vital component in the construction of tailored garments, providing the necessary support and structure to collars. Its combination of softness, durability, and shape retention ensures that collars maintain their form and enhance the overall appearance of suits, jackets, and coats. Whether in professional tailoring or costume design, under collar felt plays a crucial role in achieving a polished, high-quality finish.