The Application of Different Types of Interlining in Garment Manufacturing

In the world of garment manufacturing, interlining plays a crucial role in determining the overall quality, structure, and longevity of a garment. Whether it’s a tailored suit, a casual shirt, or a luxury gown, choosing the right type of interlining can significantly impact the end result. In this article, we will explore the various types of interlining used in garment production and their specific applications.

1. Fusible Interlining

Fusible interlining is perhaps the most widely used type in garment manufacturing. This interlining has a resin coating on one side that melts when heat is applied, allowing it to bond with the outer fabric.

Applications:

• Shirts: Fusible interlining is commonly used in shirt collars, cuffs, and plackets to provide a crisp, smooth finish.
• Jackets and Blazers: It adds structure to lapels and fronts, ensuring they maintain shape over time.
• Women's Dresses: Fusible interlining is used to stabilize certain areas like necklines and facings to prevent stretching and wrinkling.

The ease of application and ability to bond with various fabrics make fusible interlining a versatile and popular choice across the industry.

2. Non-fusible (Sew-in) Interlining

Unlike fusible interlining, non-fusible interlining is sewn into the garment rather than bonded with heat. This type is typically used for more delicate or heat-sensitive fabrics that might be damaged by the fusing process.

Applications:

• Luxury Garments: In high-end fashion and bespoke tailoring, non-fusible interlining is often preferred because it provides a softer, more natural drape.
• Wool Suits: It’s a popular choice in wool-based garments where heat application might damage the fabric or compromise its natural texture.
• Evening Wear and Bridal Gowns: Non-fusible interlining is frequently used in delicate silk or chiffon fabrics where maintaining fabric integrity is critical.

3. Woven Interlining

Woven interlining is made by weaving fibers together, which makes it particularly durable and flexible. Its woven structure allows it to mimic the characteristics of outer fabrics, giving garments a more natural feel.

Applications:

• Tailored Suits: Woven interlining is frequently used in high-quality tailored suits to add strength and maintain the garment’s shape over time.
• Jackets: It provides stability to areas like collars, cuffs, and lapels without affecting the garment’s movement or flexibility.

4. Non-woven Interlining

Non-woven interlining is manufactured by bonding fibers together, rather than weaving them. This gives it a different texture and feel compared to woven interlining. It is less expensive and faster to produce, making it a cost-effective solution for many manufacturers.

Applications:

• Fast Fashion: Non-woven interlining is often used in fast fashion or mass-produced garments due to its cost-effectiveness.
• Lightweight Garments: It’s ideal for lightweight fabrics where a bulkier woven interlining might interfere with the drape or feel of the garment.
• Casual Wear: Non-woven interlining is commonly used in everyday clothing like casual shirts and blouses where structure is needed, but durability isn’t as critical as in high-end garments.

5. Knitted Interlining

Knitted interlining is created through a knitting process, making it extremely stretchy and flexible. This characteristic makes it perfect for use with stretch fabrics.

Applications:

• Activewear: Knitted interlining is commonly used in sportswear or activewear where flexibility and stretch are crucial for comfort and performance.
• Stretch Garments: In garments made from spandex or lycra, knitted interlining helps provide support without restricting movement.
• Circular Knit Interlining: A subtype often used in elastic or circular-knit fabrics for enhanced flexibility and comfort.

6. Weft Insertion Interlining

Weft insertion interlining, also referred to as weft-insert napping interlining, is a type of interlining where additional weft threads are inserted into the structure to provide extra strength and stability.

Applications:

• Winter Coats: It is frequently used in heavy coats or jackets where extra reinforcement is necessary.
• High-end Outerwear: Weft insertion interlining helps maintain shape and structure while providing warmth and additional durability to outerwear.

7. Hair Interlining

Hair interlining, also known as black charcoal interlining, is a traditional type of interlining used in high-end garment manufacturing. This interlining is made from natural fibers like horsehair, which gives it unique properties in terms of stiffness and shape retention.

Applications:

• Luxury Suits: Hair interlining is often found in bespoke or high-end suits where shape retention and durability are critical.
• Formal Wear: It’s frequently used in tuxedos, tailcoats, and other formal garments where maintaining a crisp, structured silhouette is important.

Conclusion

The correct choice of interlining is essential to achieving the desired quality and performance of a garment. Different types of interlining serve different purposes, ranging from adding structure and shape to providing flexibility and support. Whether you’re designing a luxury suit or a casual shirt, selecting the right interlining for the fabric and garment type is key to success. In the fast-paced world of fashion, understanding the nuances of interlining can set your designs apart, ensuring that every piece not only looks great but performs well over time.